2022 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

This is an impressive set of 2022s from Henri Boillot. I tasted all the 2022s from tank prior to bottling. As much as the top wines are outstanding, I was especially struck by the quality of some of the more entry and mid-tier offerings. The Boillot wines offer notable textural richness and raciness, but in recent years, some of that has been tempered by a greater emphasis on freshness, a pretty appealing combination in my book.

The reds are done with fully destemmed fruit (in 2022, the Bonnes Mares is an exception) and see a fair amount of new oak, 50-75% for the 1er Crus and 100% for the Grand Crus. Whites are raised in 350L barrels, similarly 50% new for the 1er Crus and 100% new for the Grand Crus. Larger barrels here work so well in providing added tension to play off the richer style that is such a Boillot signature.

“Harvest dates in 2022 were pretty similar to 2020, but in 2020, we had no drought,” Boillot explained. “In 2022, heat spikes and drought resulted in some hydric stress and blocked ripening. As a result, the 2022s are nearly one percentage lower in alcohol than the 2020s. In retrospect, I think we picked the 2020s too late.”

Prior to my visit, I learned that Henri Boillot’s son, Guillaume, had left the family domaine to start his own winery. It will be interesting to see how things develop here. I have known Henri Boillot long enough to know he is a person of strong resolve and that he surely has a plan in place.