2005 Nuits Saint-Georges Chaboeufs 1er Cru

"Two thousand six gave me a lot of satisfaction, especially considering the conditions of August and the state of the harvest," was the first thing Alain Meunier told me about this vintage. "We had good phenolic material and ripeness of sugars, but we threw away up to 35% of our grapes, during a late-August sorting in the vines, another one at the harvest, and then again on a table de trie." In contrast to many of his colleagues, Meunier told me that he had less rot in 2007; the major challenge in '07, he said, was uneven ripening. Meunier did very little pigeage in 2006 "due to the sanitary state of the vintage," and no chaptalization, as potential alcohol levels ranged from 12.9% to 13.5%. "The wines are ripe, and the acidity is correct, but the wines are on the tender side, with pHs a bit higher than the 2005s." Meunier predicts that 2006 will be a "medium-term ager: more than 2004 but less than 2005. And they'll be much more presentable young than 2005, which is closed and severe now."

Alain Meunier told me the harvest was drawn out in 2005 due to wide differences in fruit maturity. After bringing in the Cote de Nuits-Villages and Chambolle-Musigny, he stopped for a full week, which he said brought better phenolic ripeness without loss of acidity. "And conditions were favorable; the harvest was ripe and clean," he added. "There was nothing to eliminate." Meunier believes that his 2004s will develop rapidly. He had to pick rapidly due to encroaching rot, he said, and for that reason some of the wines lack material despite possessing rather full alcohol levels. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.) Also recommended: Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Fleurieres (85), Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (86).