2002 Nuits Saint-Georges Chaboeufs 1er Cru

Alain and Sophie Meunier were two weeks short of bottling their 2003s when I visited in mid-November, but the wines were still in barrel and not yet racked.Sophie Meunier said the yields were "forgettable," due more to spring frost than to summer heat.The Meuniers harvested during the mornings, from August 23 through 30, using carbonic snow to bring down the temperature of the fruit and enable them to do their normal cold maceration.The wines were acidified in cuve and possess alcohol between 13% and 13.5% without chaptalization.Although I have occasionally criticized this domain's wines in the low-acid years, their top 2003s seem quite successful in the context of this vintage. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)

Alain Meunier told me that the harvest of 2002 was saved by the fresh wind and sunlight after the rains, and that the grapes were very ripe and healthy, with good fresh acidity.Following a severe green harvest, and other steps to control yields, Meunier still produced 42 to 45 hectoliters per hectare (but more like 35 for the crus), eliminating almost nothing owing to the health of the grapes.(In 2001, in comparison, he threw out 25% of his fruit, '15% for being underripe and 10% for being touched by rot.') Meunier compares 2002 to 1999, but believes that the new vintage is a bit more sharp, a bit higher in acidity.At the same time, he added, there was less chaptalization necessary in 2002:in 1999, everything was chaptalized except for the Cote de Nuits-Villages. Meunier views vintage 2002 as a mid-term ager.In any event, he admitted, 'I don't like old pinot noir.'(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)