2011 Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er Cru
France
Meursault
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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The bad flowering and 20 centimeters (!) of hail on June 30 resulted in a tiny crop in 2012, but in the end grape sugars were in the healthy 12% to 12.5% range and some wines were not chaptalized, according to Gaunoux. Best of all, the grapes were sound and no selection was needed. The malos here finished in April and early May and the wines had been sulfited a week before my visit. Incidentally, Gaunoux told me that he has not done any lees stirring since 2004, as he had premature oxidation problems with certain cuvees in 1998 and 2000. "The problem was having to add too much SO2 too early," he told me, adding that he has cut his total use of sulfur in half since the mid-'00s.
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Jean-Michel Gaunoux, who stopped stirring the lees with the 2004 vintage for fear of getting premature oxidation, described 2011 as "a good, fresh vintage with minerality. The wines will be easy but will age well. They're more taut than the 2007s; they're straight, like the 2008s." Gaunoux harvested at the beginning of September, and said his typical 2011 came in with 12.7% potential alcohol and was chaptalized to 13%. He's been adding SO2 bit by bit but will not rack for the first time until after the 2012 harvest. He planned to bottle the 2011s in December, following a month in tank and a fining.
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