2022 Saint-Aubin Les Perrières 1er Cru

As tradition dictates, Chartron was one of my first ports of call during my six-week marathon. This is almost entirely a white portfolio but with one or two red cuvées, including a recalcitrant Puligny Premier Cru, albeit made in minuscule quantity. Most of the wines are domaine, although these are augmented mainly by exchanges and some purchased fruit. Chartron picked from August 25 to September 8, and the whites were not filtered and poured just before fining. In recent years, he has introduced lower levels of sulfur so that now there is around 35mg/L by bottling. I often found that his wines really deserve time in bottle, as proven by a Chassagne Cailleret opened after our tasting. As usual, I actually prefer his 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevalier to his Montrachet, which comes from an exchange of must and is represented by just one feuillette (incidentally, the same as the Montrachet from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey.) The strongest cards are his Pulignys, particularly Clos de la Pucelle, and, even better, his Clos du Cailleret, which managed to overcome the summer warmth and produce Chardonnays with impressive tension.