2021 Saint-Aubin Les Perrières 1er Cru

Jean-Michel Chartron has hit a strong run of form in recent vintages, though he was directly in the line of fire when frost hit. “We made half the crop in 2021, the most impact in Saint-Aubin Sous le Sentier du Clous and Puligny Folatières, where I made 20% of the normal volume. So here, the fruit comes all from the secondary buds. I started picking on 18 September.” In a slightly reduced portfolio, partly because some cuvées are based on exchanges of fruit rendered impossible this season, including his Montrachet, there are a few gems to be found, such as his Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Pucelle 1er Cru and Puligny-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru (exclusively from Hameau de Blagny). For those searching for a bargain, look no further than his 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Village – superb.