2009 Beaune Champs Pimonts 1er Cru
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The beginning of June was too early to venture judgments on this estate's 2010 white wines, as none of the malolactic fermentations had finished and some hadn't even started. "There was lots more malic acidity than in 2009," noted consulting winemaker Nadine Gublin. "The wines are very delicate and we didn't want to do anything that risks losing finesse. For example, we did not do any lees stirring." Gublin was not the only winemaker to tell me that the 2009s benefited from the long, cold winter of 2009/2010. "The wines found more structure after the malos," she said. "Before that, they were too facile, too varietal." At the beginning the estate thought they'd be bottling these wines early but in the end they did their normal long aging on the lees.
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"The 2009s seemed too easy and tender at the beginning," said enologist Nadine Gublin, "but the reasonably late malos [mostly ending in May], thanks in part to the very cold winter, gave them more structure-a structure that was hidden at the beginning. The wines have been constructed during their elevage: they have taken on more thickness and tannic force." Gublin told me that the team began picking on September 8 and "took their time." She admitted to making the full allowable yields but noted that the phenolic material was strong and grape sugars were in the 13.5% to 14% range. The wines were still on their lees in barriques, unracked, at the time of my visit.
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Consulting winemaker Nadine Gublin told me she did almost no stirring of the lees in 2009 as the fruit was already rich enough and acidity was low. She did very little debourbage, intentionally bringing a lot of lees into the barrel. My notes below are limited to those cuvees that had finished their malolactic fermentation by the time of my late May visit. The Prieur 2008s were even slower to complete their malos (I only offered a note on one wine in Issue 146) and late to be bottled as well. In fact, only three of them were finished by the end of May; the rest were slated for a late June bottling. The 2008s, said Gublin, were very aromatic from the outset owing to a surmaturite character that came from an element of noble rot. The wines are high in all the major technical components, with alcohol ranging from 13.5% to 14.5%, acidity in the 4.5 to 4.6 g/l range, and residual sugar between two and three grams in most wines. A few of them struck me as a bit extreme. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (86).
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