2008 Beaune Champs Pimonts 1er Cru
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Consulting winemaker Nadine Gublin told me she did almost no stirring of the lees in 2009 as the fruit was already rich enough and acidity was low. She did very little debourbage, intentionally bringing a lot of lees into the barrel. My notes below are limited to those cuvees that had finished their malolactic fermentation by the time of my late May visit. The Prieur 2008s were even slower to complete their malos (I only offered a note on one wine in Issue 146) and late to be bottled as well. In fact, only three of them were finished by the end of May; the rest were slated for a late June bottling. The 2008s, said Gublin, were very aromatic from the outset owing to a surmaturite character that came from an element of noble rot. The wines are high in all the major technical components, with alcohol ranging from 13.5% to 14.5%, acidity in the 4.5 to 4.6 g/l range, and residual sugar between two and three grams in most wines. A few of them struck me as a bit extreme. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (86).
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Thanks to a "pre-harvest" carried out at the beginning of September, Domaine Prieur brought in fruit with decent phenolic maturity and sound levels of sugar (typically between 12% and 12.5%, but 13% for the Corton) and moderate acidity. The crop level averaged barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, according to Martin Prieur. "Overall phenolic ripeness was actually more regular than in 2006," noted enologist Nadine Gublin, "but the key was the quality of the fruit you kept." It's still early days, but in November I preferred the 2008s here to the 2007s for their greater energy. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (85). Other wines tasted: Meursault Clos de Mazeray.
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