2011 Puligny-Montrachet Village
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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"It was never really hot in 2012 and the cool nights protected the minerality in the grapes," said Jacques Carillon, whose crop levels were down anywhere from 50% to 75% owing to cold weather during the flowering and the three hail events."The fat of the wines is blocking their minerality now," he told me."The 2012s don't have the same tension as the 2010s.But they're concentrated wines with good acidity."Carillon finds the 2011s more floral and open on the nose, but he also feels that they have good minerality.Acidity levels in the finished '11s are quite healthy:in the 4.5 to 4.9 grams-per-liter range.Carillon filters the bourbes and thus brings only the fine lees into barrel.He ages his premier crus in about 20% new oak, and the village wines in roughly 15%.
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2014 - 2014
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Jacques Carillon's 2011s are super-impressive. The wines are brilliant, focused and persistent, with great texture and balance, much of which comes from a relatively early harvest that started on August 30th. Yields were in the normal range, which here means about 45 hectoliters per hectare for the village wines and 40 hectoliters for the 1er Crus. This is one of the few cellars where malos progressed slower than normal. The 1er Crus were bottled at the end of March. Carillon used about 15% new oak for the village wines, 20% for the 1er Crus and 50% for the Bienvenues.
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Jacques Carillon is confident that 2011 will turn out to be "a pretty year" for Burgundy's white wines.He told me he stirred the lees every two or three weeks until the end of the malolactic fermentations, most of which had just finished at the time of my visit or were nearly done.He describes his finished 2010s as "like '08 but with more concentration:the wines have lovely fruits and flowers and good mineral lift."Carillon noted that the '10s have not yet closed up and he wondered if they would.
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