2023 L'Hermitage

Jean-Louis Chave reported a healthy 2023 crop, yielding 35 to 40 hectoliters per hectare (hl/ha) for reds and 38 hl/ha for whites—significantly above his long-term average of 25 to 28 hl/ha. Reflecting on the late-August heatwave that shaped the vintage, Chave remarked: “What’s interesting about the vine's evolution is its ability these days to say ‘stop’. In vintages like 2003, the heat shocked the vines. I truly believe they’ve adapted to arid conditions.” However, Chave noted a downside to this adaptation: “If there are too many grapes and the vine pauses due to the excess crop load, the timing of that pause becomes critical. Early slowing halts progress in sugar and phenolic ripeness, which is problematic. But if it happens later, it can be beneficial, as the vine might stop at 12.5 or 13% alcohol while phenolic ripening might continue.” Examining the diverse soil types on the Hill of Hermitage, Chave observed that ripening blockages were more common on granitic soils, which drain quickly, compared to clay-rich soils that retain more water. Data from the 2023 vintage reflects this: juice from Les Bessards lieu-dit on granitic soils reached 13% alcohol, while those from Méal, with its clay-rich soils, achieved 15%. How does Chave balance such disparities? “As always, through blending. Clay needs granite, and granite needs clay. Hermitage’s strength lies in the balance of these soils,” he explained. The differences in these base wines are evident in the glass. Les Bessards offers delicacy and finesse, while Méal provides riper fruit with less vibrancy. We also discussed the impact of heatwaves, like the one in late August 2023, on acidity. “In a vintage like 2023, with lower tartaric acidity, lactic or even acetic acids can compensate in tasting. Acetic acidity is harsher and less appealing, while lactic acidity is softer. Tartaric acid, on the other hand, rarely harmonizes with wine. In 2023, the ten-day August heatwave burned off much of the tartaric acidity. In contrast, 2022 retained more tartaric acidity,” Chave concluded. Judging from early tastings, both the red and white Hermitages from 2023 show remarkable vivacity. The same applies to the 2023 Saint-Joseph Clos Florentin. As for the 2022s, the red Hermitage remains unbottled and will be covered in my next report. The 2022 L’Hermitage Blanc, in bottle since September 2024, stands out as an exceptional white, ranking alongside the extraordinary 2019, which I tasted alongside it.