2000 Chambolle-Musigny
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We Burgundians like freshness and purity of fruit," said Romain Lignier, explaining why he prefers the 2001 vintage to 2000 despite considering the two sets of wines to be of roughly equal quality. No vintage is perfect," he added. The Achilles heel of 2001 is its slightly green tannins; in 2000 it was fruit that was a bit cooked, while in 1999 it was a degree of dilution due to the high yields." The Ligniers have neither fined nor filtered their wines since the '92 vintage.
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Romain Lignier compared his 2000s to his 1997s. "These two hugely ripe vintages brought our highest grape sugars to date, up to 13.5% for the crus," he told me in November, "but the 2000s are characterized by fresher fruit aromas, with the '97 showing more roasted ripeness and licorice. Still, the maturity of 2000 hasn't necessarily brought the terroir and certainly '99 is truer to the soil," he added. The 2000s, which had not yet been racked at the time of my visit, will be bottled between January and April of 2002, or about three or four months earlier than the '99s. As I tasted the highly concentrated '99s, I wondered whether they would eventually absorb their rather heavy load of new oak.
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