1998 Chambolle-Musigny

Romain Lignier carried out a strict green harvest in '99, limiting the crop to six or seven bunches per vine. Grape sugars were in the very ripe 12.5% to 13% range, said Lignier, "but 2000 was even riper." In fact, 1999 is a bit like '96, he noted, but with lower acidity. "A year of pure fruit and great early appeal" is how he described the '99s, while the '98s are more austere and perhaps more ageworthy.

Romain Lignier told me he has essentially adhered to his father's winemaking techniques yet has made a number of significant changes. He has lengthened the pre-fermentation cold maceration and done more pigeage. He pays more attention to the sources and quality of his barrels, and has also increased the percentage of new barrels to as much as two-thirds for the crus in years like '96 and '99. And, he has taken a variety of steps to hold down yields, including using cordon royat pruning for his more prolific younger vines. "Nineteen ninety-six is looking like a great year," says Romain; "nineteen ninety-eight is a bit less concentrated, with lower acidity." It was essential to eliminate the botrytis-affected grapes in the vines, and not allow them to come in contact with the healthy fruit; less-ripe fruit was also eliminated. Yields in his village parcels were higher in '98 than in '97, but generally lower for the crus.