2004 Echézeaux Grand Cru
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Also recommended: 2004 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Porets Saint-Georges (86).
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According to export director Christophe Voisin, the estate carried out a green harvest in July and then again in August, and was actually a bit too strict in eliminating fruit in 2004. This factor, combined with the large number of vines that were lost as a result of heat and drought in 2003, resulted in production that was down from normal by the equivalent of 300 barrels of wine. Potential alcohol, according to Voisin, was roughly equal to that of the 2002 crop. Faiveley moderated his punchdown regimen in 2004 and believes that the wines today are richer than the 2001s. I found the 2004s from Nuits-Saint-Georges to be rather hard, but the tasting took a turn for the better when I got to the Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers. Owing to the very late malos, the 2004s had not yet been racked in November. Incidentally, Faiveley upped the percentage of new oak in 2004 to about 50% for all the crus, and went even higher in 2005. He is trying to make wines that are a bit less austere and tannic. Not surprisingly, Faiveley's style, which privileges acid and tannin structure over early appeal, worked well in 2003, although most of the top wines from this heat-wave vintage will need extended aging.
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