2004 Muscat Goldert Clos Saint Imer Cuvee de la Chapelle

While many of the other Alsace vignerons I visited during the week of September 18 were preparing to start harvesting the following week, Francis Burn predicted that he would wait until October 9 to attack his riesling. "One week earlier we might have better acidity, but there would be less richness and opulence," he explained. "And today the gewurztraminer skins are still tough; they need to soften up to take on more flavor. The last week brings much more concentration. Yes, the wines are sweeter, and consumers will need to wait two or three years, but you can't change your wines to suit the market. And besides, tastes change every five years anyway." Burn describes 2004 as "not great but with a very good balance of sugars and acids." He picked late, then eliminated the rotten grapes in the vineyard. He prefers riesling and gewurztraminer from this vintage, and told me that he now enjoys fruity riesling more than the petrolly, austere style. Incidentally, Burn told me he's making more and more muscat (his holding in the grand cru Goldert is ideal for this variety) and less pinot gris, as muscat is easier to sell today in France. (A Peter Vezan Selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA; and Import!, Madison, WI; also imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY)