2000 Muscat Goldert Clos Saint Imer Cuvee de la Chapelle

Francis Burn describes this estate '99s as relatively dry wines of finesse, with the strongest acidity of the last four years. "The ripeness came as the berries dried out and shrunk, rather from the concentrating effect of botrytis," added Burn. "In contrast, the 2000s are more powerful wines, although yields were roughly similar in both years." Burn told me he started harvesting only a few days earlier in 2000 than the previous year (October 5 vs. October 8), but in 2000 he picked all the way to the middle of November. "We waited because we didn't want to pick during periods of heat, and for this reason we have less volatile acidity in our wines. It was necessary to practice strict selection and to take our time." He also pointed out that the fruit that was less ripe during the heat of early September was far less likely to have been "pricked" and thus degraded by bees and fruit flies. (A Peter Vezan Selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Import!, Madison, WI; also imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY)