2019 Rouge Bourgogne

Pierre Duroché has elevated his namesake Gevrey domaine into one of the most sought after in the appellation. Thankfully the fame has not changed the self-effacing, down-to-earth winemaker one jot. It’s a family affair, Pierre’s wife working in the adjacent office and his daughter, cute as only 5-year old French "mignon" can be, joined us for the tasting of “papa’s vins”. “I started the picking in Gevrey [the négoce cuvée - there are two this year just like at Domaine Tawse] on 9 September and then stopped for two days, restarting on 11 September and finishing on 19 September. The yield was 30% less than in 2018 at around 30hl/ha. For example, the Lavaux Saint-Jacques there was 20 to 25 barrels when the vines were compensating for the frost in 2016, compared to 15 barrels in 2019. If you think that is small there are just 8 barrels in 2020. There is no SO2 added during vinification with the first racking undertaken only when it is transferred into vat for blending. It’s all very simple here. This is the first year we will distil the lees to make a Marc de Bourgogne. There is a woman in Marsannay who will do that for us. Alcohol levels are moderate, between 12.5° to 13.8°. It is not like 2017 but the flavours are similar and more concentrated. The acidity level is quite high. The wines are easy to taste young but they will age. Each year we manage to fine-tune what we do.” This was a predictably exemplary portfolio of wines that are just so graceful and pure, the epitome of that nebulous term "Pinoté". Pierre prefers a shorter élevage without a second winter in barrel and I must admit that I am intrigued to see how that would change the wines. There are many highlights at all levels, from his delicious Bourgogne Rouge to one of the ethereal Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze of 2019, my pick over the elusive Griotte-Chambertin. Those addicted to foraging for rare cuvées will be pleased to note the addition of a Chambertin under his négoce label, which is ostensibly domaine since Pierre Duroché oversees all the viticulture, harvest and winemaking. Good news is that there is twice the quantity of the Griottes. Bad news is that still it amounts to a measly 150-litres being matured in a single new barrel that will be a used barrel for the 2020.