2018 Rouge Bourgogne

Pierre Duroché has become an overnight superstar in Gevrey-Chambertin, not that you would know it by his self-effacing demeanor and preference to remain out of the limelight (far happier either in the vineyard, climbing rock faces or spending time with his young family.) This was one of the first sets of 2018s that I tasted in early September. Duroché likes to bottle early after one winter in barrel. "The reds were put into barrel in October without any racking and first sulphites in March with none during malolactic, when I just added CO2 to protect the cap," he told me in his refurbished tasting room. "There is only 10% new oak in the Gevrey-Chambertin Village and the Gevrey-Chambertin En Champ and none in the other cuvées. Harvest began 31 August and finished around 9 September because there were some parcels that were very ripe and others, such as Lavaut Saint-Jacques where I had to wait. It was an easy alcoholic fermentation over 12 days, a little shorter than usual as the tannins were easy to extract, so only pumping over was necessary. In May there was a lot of storms which caused some mildew but from mid-June there was little rain. The alcohol degree is from 12.0% to 13.5%, mainly small berries with high acidity. There is a little more whole bunch in 2018. I think the growing season suited our style of winemaking." These are wonderful wines from Duroché this year that will appeal to those who look for a lighter and more classical style of Pinot Noir with that element of "transparency". These wines do put on weight from barrel, as testified by a lovely 2015 Charmes-Chambertin picked off the wine list at Lameloise the following month.