2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur de Roy
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2019 vintage)
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2018 - 2023
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Bernard Dugat farms 10 hectares of vineyards, 6.5 of which he and his family own outright. The Dugat-Py wines are breathtaking for their richness and depth. Despite their sheer concentration, the wines retain tons of vineyard and vintage character. These are some of the most viscerally thrilling, exciting wines I tasted on my recent trip through Burgundy. The only 2009 I wasn't able to taste was the Pommard, which had been bottled just prior to my visit.
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With his low crop levels (an average of 24 hectoliters per hectare in '08), Bernard Dugat always picks on the early side, and in 2008 he had all his Cote de Nuits fruit in by October 1. Potential alcohol levels were in the 12% to 12.4% range and the wines were lightly chaptalized. Dugat leaves the wine alone to make itself, using no commercial yeasts and no concentrator. One variable that does change according to the vintage is Dugat's use of stems. He told me that with his small crop and high percentage of very old vines, "2008 would have been a greater year with one more week of sun," but there are nonetheless some splendid '08s in the making here. Most of Dugat's 2008s were being kept in a cellar at about 62 degrees in early November to finish the malolactic fermentations. I tasted the ones that were finished or virtually finished.