2023 Volnay Village

In recent years, Domaine des Comtes Lafon has been in transition, as Dominique Lafon hands the reins to daughter, Léa, and nephew, Pierre Lafon. The latter greeted me in Meursault. Dominique has his own project in his name, working out of the shared facility in Bligny-lès-Beaune, that unfortunately I did not have time to taste this year. This comprehensive tasting included their Mâconnais wines. Readers should note that I made a short video with Pierre Lafon that can be found in the Media section circa this report’s publication.

We began with the reds that, similar to other producers’, eschew the use of whole bunches in this season. Also, following conversations with Dominique, the wines underwent a little more racking, the next due a little earlier than usual in November rather than December (this may entail earlier bottling, though no decision has been made). The Mâcon wines were picked from September 1, then the Côte de Beaune whites began in Montrachet on September 4. The reds were hot on their heels two days later. The Mâcon wines were bottled in June/July 2024 except for the Clos des Fours, bottled just prior to picking.

In 2023, I am smitten by the red Volnays that exude purity and finesse. These wines seem light on their feet yet deliver wonderful intensity and seductive silky textures. In particular, Les Champans delivers everything you could wish for. The whites center on Meursault, of course. The Les Perrières and Genevrières are the two predictable standouts. There are the usual seven barrels of Montrachet, the epitome of intensity and finesse, and one of the best that I have tasted at this prenatal stage. Judging by the quality of these latest wines, it looks like one of Meursault’s most prominent producers lies in safe hands.