2011 Volnay Village
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The Comtes Lafon 2011 reds are super-impressive. Stylistically they come across as a hybrid of 2009 and 2010, but with perhaps a touch more early appeal than either of those two vintages.
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Dominique Lafon, who now farms 21 hectares of vines on the Cote de Beaune, told me that "not one vineyard was untouched by hail in 2011."But it was a simple matter to eliminate the dried berries at harvest, he said, since they "fell very easily," and there were virtually no rotten or underripe grapes when Lafon started picking his pinot at the beginning of September.The malos finished by mid-January (in some cases, before the 2010s finished!), at which point the wines were sulfited but not racked.The pHs today are in the healthy 3.4 range, although Lafon pointed out that the wines taste even fresher than the numbers would suggest because the fruit in 2011 was crunchy and not overripe."This quality accentuates the acidity of the wines, which is average," he explained.Lafon continues to reduce his number of punchdowns--to a total of just three to five per cuvee for the '11s. (Classic Wine Imports, www.classicwineimports.com; also a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com)
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