2000 Gevrey-Chambertin Au Velle
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After underperforming compared to his colleagues in Gevrey-Chambertin in 1999, primarily by harvesting grapes swelled by rain, Mortet has returned to form in 2000, with a set of wines that are rich with natural alcohol yet accurate to their sites. The always-candid Mortet made a point of telling me he now looking for less extraction than he practiced as recently as 1998, and is trying to allow the terroir to express itself. None of the 2000s had yet been racked in November.
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