1998 Gevrey-Chambertin Au Velle
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"I'm not a rocket scientist when it comes to vinification," admits Denis Mortet. "The quality of my wines is a function of the grapes, not the work in the winery. I get my extraction in the vines, very little through vinification." Mortet went for ampleur and aromatic complexity in '98, for finesse over sheer extraction. He did a rather gentle pigeage and tried to extend the fermentations in order to avoid getting hard tannins. Mortet added leaf-pulling to his repertoire of viticultural techniques in '97 and did it again in '98 in order to get riper fruit earlier. "I had five guys out in Lavaux Saint-Jacques the Friday before the harvest, pulling off leaves on the south side of the vines in order to get more sun on the grapes," said Mortet. Potential alcohols in '98 ranged from 12.2% to as high as 13.6%. Mortet carried out a pre-fermentation cold soak lasting seven to nine days. All of the '98s noted below are aging in 100% new oak.