2012 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de l'Arlot 1er Cru
France
Nuits Saint Georges
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Jacques Devauges gave me a blow-by-blow account of the harvest season of 2012, explaining the major differences in conditions for the estate's vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges and adjacent Vosne-Romanee."It was a difficult vintage that began with a very cold spell in February in which nighttime temperatures reached minus-13 degrees Centigrade (9 degrees F) and the north wind blew.The extreme cold penetrated the buds and we lost a lot of potential crop right here.Then the April through July period brought about 50% more rain than average and there were a lot of mildew and oidium pressures.The flowering was almost normal for us in Vosne-Romanee but difficult in Premeaux, where it happened a week later under cold and rainy conditions.The old vines suffered a lot from coulure and we lost a lot of crop.A hailstorm in the southern part of Clos de l'Arlot on July 4 seriously affected the Petit Arlot grapes and the white grapes, but the old vines were relatively unaffected.In the end, our overall production was down 45% in 2012, about 20 hectoliters per hectare on average."We started harvesting on September 20 and finished before the huge rain on the 25th.We're biodynamic and organic so we still had good healthy vines at the harvest.And it's a rare year when we have no botrytis, just like in 2009 and 2005.But 2012 was also a year in which the little mistakes were costly:the choice of harvest dates, the products you used, the timing of treatments."Devauges has cut back on the percentage of whole-cluster vinification practiced here previously, doing vendange entier only with tight millerande bunches "where the stems get more sun and ripeness."He told me he had never extracted less than in 2012:"just three pigeages per cuvee in total, and one small remontage using gravity."He believes that "part of the strong material in 2012 is from a stress reaction of the vines to the difficult conditions--this gave different molecules as a natural defense against the climatic conditions, especially mildew and oidium.In the end, 2012 is a vintage of density and sweetness, and these specific molecules may contribute to the typicity of the vintage."Happily, the top wines here in 2012 are sensational.All but the Romanee-Saint-Vivant had been racked at the beginning of September (or the end of October, in the case of the Clos des Forets Saint-Georges). (A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com; also imported by Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com)
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