2012 Echézeaux Grand Cru
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2022 - 2032
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Winemaker Michel Mallard finds this estate's 2012s more accessible at present than the 2013s. "They're not as sappy or condensed, so they will probably offer earlier drinking," he told me, "but perhaps they will also last longer than the '13s." I found them more sensual in the early going than the '13s but wondered if they will retain their underlying precision once once they've had a chance to lose some of their baby fat.
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According to winemaker Michel Mallard, 2012 does not show quite the purity of 2010 but the wines are more concentrated than those of 2011, not to mention more structured. The use of whole-cluster fermentation has now stabilized at about one-third for the crus, and vinification continues rather extractive: the estate carried out a ten-day cold maceration in 2012, with three punchdowns per day during the fermentation followed by a week of post-fermentation maceration "with only gentle remontage." The 2012s, Mallard told me in November, are characterized by very dark fruits, especially blueberry, while the 2011s, which he believes are starting to shut down in bottle, are more about spices and flowers. (Sherbrooke Cellars, www.sherbrookecellars.com; Craft+Estate/The Vintner Group, www.craftandestate.com)
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