2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Craipillot 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Yves Confuron, always a late harvester at his family domain in Vosne-Romanée (as well as at Domaine de Courcel, which he manages), started harvesting on September 19, after a rainy week and well after nearly all of his neighbors had finished. “We needed the rains to de-block the maturity of the grapes and to modify the form of the tannins,” he explained, maintaining that sugar and acidity levels in the grapes barely changed and that dilution was not an issue. (Confuron also needs to wait for full stem ripeness as he vinifies entirely with whole bunches.) While a number of growers I visited this fall maintained that this is virtually impossible, the best Confuron-Côtetidot wines look to be outstanding. “Due to the element of hydric stress, the 2015s are ‘hyper-facile’ wines,” Confuron summarized. And yet these wines generally show no shortage of energy and a number of them revealed exhilarating floral high notes in November.
All of the ‘15s are between 13% and 13.7% alcohol without chaptaliztion, and their pHs are in the relatively high 3.8 range. “Will they be like the ‘1947s and 1949s?” Confuron wondered out loud. He finds the vintage best for the villages of Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin, thanks to their cooling combe influence in the hot 2015 growing season. All of these wines are aging in 15% to 20% new oak.
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