2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Craipillot 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2021 - 2032
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The 2012s, which were bottled in September, just two months prior to my visit to this estate, "are great on the nose but are already closing down in the mouth," according to Yves Confuron. He finds the 2012 vintage very rich and fresh "but almost too much, as they don't have quite the thirst-quenching character of the 2013s." I should note that Confuron opened 750-ml. bottles of the 2012s, which is no doubt one reason they showed spectacularly. (Owing to today's very high Burgundy prices--and excess of supply over demand--many estates now routinely bottle a limited number of 375s for early professional tasters. While these bottles are often representative in the first year or so, they are sometimes less fresh than the 750s, especially when they have been bottled with a bit more sediment at the end of a run.)
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Yves Confuron appears to prefer 2011 to 2010 and 2012 at the family domain in Vosne-Romanee: the 2011s, he says, are richer than the 2010s and more vibrant than the 2012s. "The 2012s have very rich aromas," he told me. "They're not jammy but they can be a bit dull. And they have the texture of another region--like Piemonte, if you extracted too much." As is his habit, Confuron harvested very late, beginning on September 29 with low levels of malic acidity in the grapes. Nothing is destemmed here, and these wines have a track record of taking on shape and energy during their long elevage. The malos finished very late and Confuron planned to bottle the '12s next August and September.
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