2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
France
Chambolle Musigny
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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De Vogüé's 2011s are fabulous. Winemaker François Millet describes 2011 as a year in which the seasons were inverted, with summertime in the spring and fall in the summer. The harvest started on August 31, normal for the year, but obviously quite early by historical standards. As was the case at a few estates, my sense is that the de Vogüé 2011s are starting to close down a bit. Overall, though, this is an impressive set of wines. The 2011s will drink better earlier than the 2010s, which is great news for fans of the domaine.
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Winemaker Francois Millet, who described 2011 as a very stressful year, told me that the wines have gained in breadth of flavor in barrel since late summer and now show a broader range of aromas than they did at the outset. "The vintage is characterized by jellied fruits, with minerality and the sweet open flowers of the afternoon," he said in November. Potential alcohol levels were around 12% and Millet said he made a choice to chaptalize lightly: the finished wines won't be higher than 12.5%. But skin ripeness was good, he added. Millet finds "a lot of tangerine and white citrus notes" in the wines, which he says add to their natural freshness. "The 2011s would have been too sweet without acidity and their cool core of limestone." Said Millet: "Two thousand ten is great if you like minerality, freshness and the truth. Two thousand eleven is a message of peace." Average yields were similar in both vintages, at around 20 hectoliters per hectare. (Dreyfus-Ashby, www.dreyfusashby.com; Ideal Wines & Spirits, www.idealwine.us; Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com; The Wine Company, www.thewinecompany.net)
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