2002 Meursault En l'Ormeau
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Yves Boyer was in the midst of an extensive cellar expansion at the beginning of June. He told me that due to the construction, the cellar temperatures were lower than normal in late winter and spring, and thus the malolactic fermentations went more slowly. This was probably a good thing," Boyer told me, noting that the aromatics in 2002 were especially pure. Boyer's 2002s finished with residual sugar in the very dry 1 to 1.5 grams-per-liter range, which is not freakishly low for white Burgundy but nonetheless is lower than many 2002s from his neighbors in Meursault. Today's yeasts are working better," explained Boyer, who emphasized that he uses only wild yeasts for the fermentations. I tasted the North Berkeley bottlings of Boyer's 2001s, except for the Meursault Genevrieres and Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets, for each of which there is only one bottling. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; and Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA; the higher prices shown in the ranges below are those of North Berkeley Imports, which in most cases has made barrel selections and had the wine bottled without fining or filtration)
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