2002 Meursault

Bernard Morey describes his 2002s and 2000s as vintages that are more minerally but less aromatic: that is, more accurate to the soil. The 2001s are more aromatic and fruit-driven," he adds, "with the nose currently dominating the palate." The 2002s will be for drinking after the 2001s, he believes; the new vintage featured the best levels of acidity since 1996. Morey told me he prefers 1999 to 2000; he describes the latter set of wines as strict and severe today. The 2002 malos here mostly finished between December and February, although the sugar fermentations were tricky; several cuvees finished with between 2 and 2.5 grams of residual sugar. I began by sampling a number of Morey's negociant bottlings, kept in a frigid cellar toward the top of the village of Chassagne-Montrachet.