2004 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Charmes Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2023 - 2033
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After visiting with Charles Rousseau in his office in the courtyard of this estate, I tasted the 2004s with new assistant Anne Schussler, who told me that the estate lost one-third of its harvest to hail. "But it was an easy matter to eliminate the rotten and hailed-on grapes at the harvest, in the vines," she said. The ultimate production was between 2002 and 2003 in size-or about 32 hectoliters per hectare for the grand crus. This year, the Rousseaus did not heat their cellar to push through the malolactic fermentations, with the result that the malos occurred in a leisurely fashion; some wines did not finish until summer. They should all be bottled by the summer of 2006, said Schussler. I found these wines reasonably pure but lacking in stuffing and real concentration; a few of the big boys seemed to be hiding behind their tannins in November. But it must be noted that due to the late malos these wines were considerably less advanced than they usually are at the same date.
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