1999 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Potential alcohol levels at this estate were in the very high 13.0-13.5% range in '99, which meant that none of the grand crus required chaptalization, Charles Rousseau told me in November. The yields were full, but not at all excessive (just 40 hectoliters per hectare for the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques and the Clos de Beze), and in any event, Rousseau noted, they were a good 10% to 15% lower than in '96. The cool nights in the period leading up to the '99 harvest helped the grapes retain acidity, Rousseau added, with the result that relatively little acidification was needed during the vinification. The wines showed very well in November; even the Gevrey villages grabbed my attention. The '98s were also impressive from barrel a year ago, but a few of my samples of the finished wines did not quite deliver on their early promise. The Rousseau wines have established a strong track record for aging gracefully, so it possible the '98s are just going through an awkward stage.