1998 Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos

Two years ago, Laszlo Meszaros took over as Disznok_ general manager, replacing Dominique Arrangois who, along with AXA's Bordeaux team (Jean‑Michel Cazes and Daniel Llose), had guided the winery since its 1992 rebirth. A decade of collective experience in the vineyards, a sizable, expertly trained and enthusiastic staff, and the use of state‑of‑the‑art facilities have given Disznok_ an advantage over most of the Tokaji Renaissance estates. But it was only this year, and with the '99 vintage, that I experienced the kind of consistent excitement in the glass that one hopes for when great terroir and dedicated winemaking are at hand. Just over 100 acres, or around half of the estate, have now been replanted with selected clones, emphasizing furmint, and that fruit has begun to make its presence felt since the 1998 vintage. At this point, the pace of replanting will slacken. "We think it's still important," says Meszaros, "to have a significant presence of older vines, even if they aren't of the best clones. The vines planted in the '80s are at their best now." The overall proportion of furmint will eventually reach two‑thirds. Over the years, production at Disznok_ has settled into a pattern of about one-third each dry wine, Tokaji Aszu, and late‑harvest types (including Szamorodni). Since '96, the Disznok_ vineyard has supplied virtually all of its own Aszu berries. "Our approach is pragmatic," explains Meszaros. "We are still in the market for Aszu berries. But the quality must be right for the price. And we can see and taste the quality difference between what is available out there and our own Aszu grapes."