2006 Condrieu La Galopine
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Winemaker Jacques Grange told me that while the 2006s will provide early-drinking pleasur and are balanced to age, they won't achieve the depth or complexity of his 2005s. This was borne out in my tasting, where the more serious 2005s displayed impressive power and structure while the 2006s were more straightforward and fruity. Grange, a Burgundy native who studied enology at Dijon, asserted again that his goal is to produce wines that emphasize finesse over power, telling me that "people forget that the best wines of the north have always been prized for their balance and complexity more than for their mass."