2017 Brunello di Montalcino

This year, the Cupano estate has turned out another stunning set of new releases with the 2017 Brunello and 2016 Riserva. Sadly, its visionary founder, Lionel Cousin, passed away this year in April of 2021. If you’ve never indulged in a mature bottle of Cupano Brunello, then you may not realize just how much of a visionary and trailblazer he really was. The Cupano winery is located near the town of Camigliano, in the warm western-most reaches of Montalcino. The elevations here are much lower than most of the region, between 180 to 200 meters, with well-draining sedimentary soils that are unique, consisting of sandy clay, fossils and stones. Many producers think of this zone for creating dark-fruited, forward, plush Brunello that doesn’t stand the test of time. However, Lionel Cousin saw it as virgin land, untouched by chemicals or even man for that matter, and with its own unique terroir which, when combined with his Burgundian-inspired winemaking techniques, could create something exceptional. He was right, as my recent tastings of the 2001 showed, which was only Cupano’s second vintage, and which was refined in 100% new 228-liter French oak. Since those early days, new vineyards have been planted, and the estate has progressed from organic to biodynamic, as well as reducing the use of new oak in the winery to around 25%. The results are, quite frankly, stunning. While there’s a modern flair in their youth, these are not wines that hide the character of Sangiovese under a veil of oak. Instead, the Cupano wines find a balance between richness, elegance and poise. They are softer, deeper and fruitier than most Brunello upon release, yet with the underlying structure to mature beautifully over the medium term.