2015 Brunello di Montalcino

In 1998, Ornella Tondini and Lionel Cousin planted their first three hectares in the south-west of Montalcino, near the town of Camigliano. The well-draining sedimentary soils were unique to the region, consisting of sandy clay, fossils and stones at elevations of only 180 to 200 meters. Also attractive was that the land had not been touched for over forty years, and never by chemicals or fertilizers. This was the perfect mix to start their project, which began as organic and now follows biodynamic principles. Cupano would be considered modern by most, following a more Burgundian approach and citing Henri Jayer as a mentor; yet what they’ve accomplished over the past fifteen years is admirable. These are not wines that hide the character of Sangiovese under a veil of oak. Instead, the Cupano wines find a balance between richness, elegance and poise. They are softer, deeper and fruitier than most Brunello upon release, yet with the underlying structure to mature beautifully over the medium term.

In 2013, Tondini and Cousin planted another three hectares around the estate, and a new winery is in the works to help deal with the increase in production. As for the wines, look to the 2015 Brunello for its upfront appeal and seductively ripe fruit, while the Riserva, a barrel selection, adds a bit more structure as well as dark, smoky depths. The 2016 balances the forward style of the house with the regal structure and bright acidity of the vintage.