2014 Rosso di Montalcino

Paolo Bianchini excels with rich, sumptuous Brunellos that capture the generosity that is such a signature of the southern end of Montalcino. The wines are dense, extracted and powerful. As such, they will appeal most to readers who prize immediacy and size. In 2011 Bianchini bottled only one Brunello, a wise choice that resulted in a superb wine. The 2010 Riserva is certainly a fine Brunello, but like too many of these wines, the rationale for bottling it is not especially obvious, nor is the decision to keep the wine in cask for four full years. I also tasted Ciacci's entry-level wines, which are average, and not especially of note. Brunello is where Bianchini's heart lies. That is, in addition to his outsize passion for bike racing. Also tasted: 2013 Montecucco Sangiovese, 2013 Ateo, 2013 Fabius.