1998 Chardonnay

Bo Barrett is one of several North Coast winemakers who are apparently having second thoughts about the suitability of sangiovese on their sites. "The sangiovese here is inky and earthy, and not at all productive," said Barrett. As a result, Montelena is replanting five acres of sangiovese to primitivo and zin, with the objective of restoring the original estate zin, which will include just 10% sangiovese. In the meantime, said Barrett, "we look for big mouth feel in the St. Vincent bottling, with no late grit—like Aussie-style Rhones." Among other recent developments here has been the decision to age the Calistoga Cuvee in barrel for 18 months beginning with the '98, rather than keeping it in large casks for six months and then holding it in bottle for another year before releasing it. "We want to make a proper Napa Valley cabernet out of the Cuvee," explained Barrett. "We've given up on that cabernet-lite stuff."