2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

This venerable domaine, the largest single land owner in the appellation, is comprised of 186 hectares (just over 100 of them planted to vines) in one of the prime sectors of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Since the 2016 vintage, Mont-Redon has been under full control of Pierre Fabre, whose branch of the family has amicably separated from their Abeille cousins as far as the day-to-day decision-making at the estate. Fabre told me that he has set a very clear and, admittedly, ambitious goal, which is “to be at the very top of the ladder in the region, no matter what it takes.” That won’t be a cheap undertaking, he admits, “and it won’t happen overnight, but the potential is there, so it’s really just a matter of vision and focus,” he said. “And money, of course,” he wryly added. His 2016 is probably the best young wine that I have ever had here, and the 2017 is shaping up to be a knockout as well.