2007 Clos Vougeot Vieille Vignes
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Francois Labet waited until October 3 to start picking his Clos Vougeot parcels, bringing in fruit with 13.1% potential alcohol and with enough phenolic ripeness to enable him to vinify entirely with whole clusters, as he has done in every vintage since 1990.Still, acid levels before the malolactic fermentations were very high, about equivalent to the acidity in 1996. Incidentally, Labet is "going bio" as of 2009 and he did a gentler extraction with his 2009 crop, which he described as "a personal decision, not a function of the market." He has also changed his approach to pruning and has planted grass between the rows of vines.
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I tasted with vineyard manager Cyril Beutot, as Francois Labet was home with the flu. After partly destemming the fruit in 2006, Labet vinified entirely whole clusters in 2007, doing a total of a month of cuvaison, including a seven-day pre-fermentation cold soak. The 2007s have a healthy 13.5% alcohol without chaptalization, noted Beutot, who described them as softer than the 2006s but still with plenty of tannins for a long life in bottle. Crop levels after the sorting were in the very low 20 hectoliters-per-hectare range, according to Beutot.
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