2011 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er Cru
France
Chassagne Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Jean-Pierre Cournut told me he's surprised by the precision and terroir expression of the 2012s at such tiny yields.Sugar levels in the grapes were in the sound 12.5% to 13% range (he began harvesting on September 20) and pHs were healthy.Yields were down sharply owing to "the combination of many factors," said Cournut, including frost, coulure and hail.As to the 2011 whites, Cournut says they're "as fresh as the 2010s but with more fat--and the reds are great."Total acidity levels in his top crus are in the very healthy 4.7 to 5.0 range."The wasn't a lot of malic acidity in the grapes, so the wines didn't change much during the secondary fermentations," he noted. (Domaines & Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include The Wine House Limited, www.winesf.com and Frederick Wildman & Sons, www.frederickwildman.com)