2000 Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er Cru

Jean-Pierre Cournut told me that the fruit in 2001 was harvested within a very narrow range of ripeness and acidity, and that the young wines are fatter than the 2000s were at the same stage of their evolution. Cournut also maintained that there was next to no rot in 2001, and reported that the 2001s tasted "almost too good now." Vinification here takes place at cool temperature in thermo-regulated tanks to preserve freshness, and the wines benefit from aging in a cellar that gets very cold in the winter. The malolactic fermentations often take place very late, but this year they were finished at the time of my visit, and the wines had been sulfited. Incidentally, Cournut admitted that he uses "more new oak than some think is ideal" but noted that the wines stay in the new barrels for a shorter duration, as he bottles all of his wines prior to the following harvest. (Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include Glazer Wholesale Distributing, Dallas, TX; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; The Wine House, San Francisco, CA; Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; and The Country Vintner, Oilville, VA)

Tasting at the Chateau de la Maltroye the spring following the vintage is an adventure, as the wines are in every possible stage of evolution. The cellar temperature here in winter often descends to just under 40oF to slow the malolactic fermentation and precipitate tartrates; the barrels closest to the door are often just beginning their secondary fermentations in May. Winemaker Jean-Pierre Cournut told me that the grape sugars varied widely in 1999, from as low as 11.8% all the way up to 14.1% for the Batard-Montrachet. He describes the '99s as pure, fresh and long. Sugar levels in 2000 were more regular, and generally higher; the wines, says Cournut, combine the fat and density of '98 with the freshness of '99. In recent years, Cournut has done less fining, even skipping this clarification step when possible. Today white wines from Cournut are among the most exciting recent developments in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. (Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include Glazer's Wholesale Distributors, Dallas, TX; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; The Wine House, San Francisco, CA; Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)