1999 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Tasting at the Chateau de la Maltroye the spring following the vintage is an adventure, as the wines are in every possible stage of evolution. The cellar temperature here in winter often descends to just under 40oF to slow the malolactic fermentation and precipitate tartrates; the barrels closest to the door are often just beginning their secondary fermentations in May. Winemaker Jean-Pierre Cournut told me that the grape sugars varied widely in 1999, from as low as 11.8% all the way up to 14.1% for the Batard-Montrachet. He describes the '99s as pure, fresh and long. Sugar levels in 2000 were more regular, and generally higher; the wines, says Cournut, combine the fat and density of '98 with the freshness of '99. In recent years, Cournut has done less fining, even skipping this clarification step when possible. Today white wines from Cournut are among the most exciting recent developments in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. (Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs; importers include Glazer's Wholesale Distributors, Dallas, TX; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; The Wine House, San Francisco, CA; Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)