2014 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco

Over the last few years Osteria Veglio has upped their game, and is once again one of best and most reasonably-priced restaurants in the Langhe. Authentic traditional Piedmontese food, an improving wine list and a beautiful setting make for a terrific dining experience.

Barolo fans will find much to like and talk about in these four wines from Augusto Cappellano. The 2014s have turned out better than I had hoped. From barrel, both Barolos were a bit light, but time seems to have been a friend. I find more richness and completeness in the 2015s. Readers who can find the wines will likely want to cellar both vintages, if for no other reason to see how the wines age. Years ago, Baldo Cappellano asked me not to rate his wines, so all Cappellano wines show up on our database as NR.

I had an opportunity to taste a number of Barolos on my most recent visit with Augusto Cappellano. The 2014s come across as delicate and a touch fragile, which is how they showed from cask. It will be interesting to see if the wines acquire a bit more body in aging. My impression is that they will always be on the lighter side of things. Because the skins were thin, Cappellano opted for fairly short fermentations, with no submerged-cap maceration, which he carries out only in exceptional years in which the skins are thick. As explained in the accompanying review, the Barolo Piè Franco was aged a bit differently than is the norm because yields were so punishingly low. I also had a chance to revisit the 2013s and 2012s. The 2013s are just as impressive as they have always been, while the 2012s are marked by a distinct red fruit profile and terrific aromatic freshness. On a personal level, there are few Barolos I enjoy reaching for more in the cellar than those of Augusto Cappellano. These remain some of the most compelling Barolos readers will come across. As always, Cappellano asks that his wines not receive numerical ratings. That hasn't stopped these wines from being as scarce as scarce gets, even in local shops.