2010 Vosne-Romanée
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Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison's 2009s in my April article.
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David Croix is now doing more punchdowns toward the end of the fermentations than he used to, in the belief that crushing the fruit later results in longer fermentations. "But we're careful not to break the seeds," he said, adding that he's more likely to follow this approach in ripe years. "In 2008 and 2004, we felt the wines needed more body so we used pigeage at the beginning." Two thousand ten qualifies as a ripe year here, as grape sugars ranged from 11.8% to as high as 13%, and some wines were not chaptalized at all. With the malos having finished between May and July or during the harvest, none of the wines had been racked yet, and the most recent sulfur treatment had been in September. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Willette Wines, New York, NY and Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA)
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