2007 Vosne-Romanée

David Croix reported high levels of malic acidity in the grapes in 2008 ("as much malic as tartaric"), with the result that pHs after the secondary fermentations range from 3.4 to as high as 3.65. The harvest took place on the late side, with grand cru fruit picked beginning on October 6 and potential alcohols generally in the low 12s. Due to the "more difficult" phenolic ripeness of '08 Croix did three punchdowns a day early in the fermentations, then cut back on this technique later on to avoid getting harder tannins in the presence of alcohol. Croix put together representative samples of each cuvee for me, each taken from two or three barrels. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Willette Wines, New York, NY and Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA) Also recommended: Beaune Les Avaux (86).

"The 2007 growing season brought a balance that we rarely see in Burgundy," said winemaker David Croix. "We had a hot-vintage cycle, with a very early start to the season, but with the weather conditions of a late-ripening vintage. The fruit was cleaner on the Cote de Nuits, and perhaps best of all in Vosne-Romanee; Beaune, Pommard and Savigny were more challenging. But the phenolics were very ripe and the seeds were brown, so we did a lot of punchdowns because we weren't afraid of getting greenness in the wines." Grape sugars were in the healthy 12.5% to 13% range and the pHs ranged up to 3.75. "It's a fleshy vintage due to low acidity; in comparison, the 2006s are more precise and classic," Croix added. He assembled blends of each wine from a new and a used barrel. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Willette Wines, New York, NY and Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA)