1978 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
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2020 - 2035
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This wine was tasted during La Festa del Barolo's Gala Dinner in April 2013.
"The spirit of sharing and camaraderie the world’s best wines inspire was in evidence at La Festa del Barolo, where I was fortunate to enjoy a range of emotionally moving, transcendental wines." Antonio Galloni
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2009.
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This wine was tasted at the Fourth Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2011.
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This wine was tasted over a dinner at Del Posto that was so amazing I hardly know where to start. The collection of wines we tasted was mind-boggling. Our initial theme was a complete vertical of Bruno Giacosa’s mythical Barolo Collina Rionda, which we managed to pull off, save the 1968. All the reason to make another attempt in a few years’ time. Before we knew it, a desire to taste a few older Champagnes turned into a full-fledged second theme of 1970s Dom Pérignons. The food and service were both superb and fully befitting of Del Posto’s recent 4-star rating by The New York Times. In particular, I adored the wood-grilled lobster (always outstanding here) and the stinco di vitello. On this night, the service was especially stellar. As readers can see by the number of wines we opened, ours was not an easy table to take care of, but Del Posto anticipated our every need (including a sprained ankle I sustained earlier in the day) with the highest level of professionalism.
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The first Italian Wine Weekend was held in New York City on November 12-14, 2009. The event, loosely based on Daniel Johnnes’s La Paulée, was held to benefit the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy. As might be expected for any event in its first year, there were some rough spots, but both dinners I attended at Del Posto were packed. The charity auction raised almost $400,000 for the University, a great achievement by any measure. I am particularly grateful to the generous bidders who purchased the two dinner lots I was involved with. I hope the organizers, participating restaurants and wineries will make Italian Wine Weekend an annual tradition.
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This wine was tasted at the Second Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in December 2008.
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Our flight of Bruno Giacosa's 1982s was staggering for its depth and the perfection of the wines themselves.
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Della Notte in Baltimore, Jan 2007.
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2006 - 2021
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It's always a lot of fun to get together with my tasting group. I knew this was going to be an unforgettable dinner when the first wine of the evening was listed as the 1985 Sassicaia, one of the most legendary and collectible wines ever produced in Italy. The plan also included a deep selection of classics, including three Giacosa Barolos from 1978, a mini-vertical of Giacosa's Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano spanning 1982-1990, and a mini-vertical of Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino covering the historic 1978, 1982, and 1985 vintages. We were fortunate, and indeed privileged, to taste these wines from bottles that had been perfectly stored since release. As always it would be a great pleasure to share these wines and the animated conversation they bring out in a small group setting. What a night lay ahead!
We started with the 1985 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, which was impressive for its deep color, fresh aromatics and vibrant flavors. It offered attractive plummy fruit, cassis and toasted oak notes on a medium-bodied frame with excellent length and fine, silky tannins, conveying an impression of understated elegance. Readers fortunate enough to own this wine can look forward to at least another decade of prime drinking.
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2006 - 2006
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For most observers 1978 occupies a hallowed place among the legendary vintages in Piedmont. From a purely historical perspective 1978 is also a fascinating vintage to study because it is the last important vintage in which the wines were largely made with traditional methods, both in the vineyards and in the cellar. These wines pre-date the arrival of the more modern style of winemaking which in the 1980s would begin to change the way many estates vinified and aged their wines. A recent dinner in New York with a group of die-hard Nebbiolo fanatics provided a great opportunity to re-visit many of the vintage's benchmark wines. As often happens, extraordinary vintages are the result of unpredictable and unexpected climactic conditions. “1978 was a very strange year,” says Mauro Mascarello. “The spring was quite damp, which resulted in a delayed and irregular flowering. The plants were carrying only about one-half of their normal amount of fruit. We basically had no summer, as the weather remained cool, rainy and foggy all the way through August. It really looked like it would be a terrible vintage. Then, all of a sudden, on the first of September the weather turned, and we had uninterrupted heat all the way through to October, with our harvest taking place in the second half of October.” The hot weather fully ripened the little fruit that remained and the naturally low yields gave some of the most concentrated, memorable wines ever made These 1978s show the extraordinary longevity that the best Barolos and Barbarescos offer. I was amazed at how youthful the wines were, an opinion shared by most, if not all, of the other tasters. Many wines displayed a lively, healthy color and appeared to be still full of life. Critics of traditionally made wines would say that the 1978s are an example of how these wines are never really ready to drink, and certainly the wines have required a great deal of patience. However, after having tasted more than twenty wines from this vintage over the last few months I can only conclude that the 1978s have proven to be well worth the effort of waiting. Well-stored bottles will provide the emotionally moving drinking experience that only a few of the world's great wines can offer. The wines were decanted several hours prior to serving and were tasted non-blind. While researching this article I had the opportunity to taste several other 1978s and also I include notes on those wines.
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