2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Folie

Under the guidance of owner/winemaker Nicolas Boiron, who began making wine at his family’s 32-hectare (79 acres) domain with his father, Maurice, in 1995, the wines here have steadily gone from strength to strength. In the past there was always a touch, and often more than a touch, of rusticity to the wines, especially their tannins, and they required extended cellaring to unfold themselves. Under Nicolas, who represents the fifth generation of Boirons to oversee the domain, which was established in 1860, the winemaking has become gentler and less extractive and the wines show a distinctly suave, if still full-flavored, fruit-driven personality. Nicolas assumed full control of the estate in 2004 and from that vintage forward these are Châteauneufs that I can comfortably count among the very best examples in the region.