2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

When Giampiero Bertolini, CEO of Biondi Santi, asked if I’d be up for some research and experiments focused on the vineyards during my visit, he really meant it. While touring the estate, both old vines and newly planted, it was explained how the goal is not to undo what had come before, but to simply put the resources they had to better use. Hence, a study of soils, expositions and genetic material on the estate, and how to use it best. This push is led by Federico Radi, a Sangiovese maven, as well as Viticulture and Winemaking Director of Biondi-Santi. Federico Radi cut his teeth at estates such as Villa Mangiacane, Isole e Olena and Belguardo – Marchesi Mazzei. The tour ended with a sit-down focus on each of the parcels that had been identified throughout the estate, with samples in each glass that had all been vinified the same, yet separate from each other. Each of these wines were then broken down into soil compositions, elevations, PH, acidity, alcohol and more. It was a testing yet eye-opening session on terroir, and it’s exactly this kind of focus that the new team has brought on board here. This year, the 2013 Riserva, as well as the 1983 Riserva La Storica, have been released, and are both included in this report, along with the 2015 Riserva and 1985 Riserva La Storica, which will be released in 2022. Both the 1983 and 1985 were reconditioned by Franco Biondi Santi himself in the year 2000. The 1983 was the first vintage that the Riserva was made in the (at the time) new winery and fermented in large, vertical oak vats, as opposed to concrete. As for the 1985, well, let’s just say that it’s pure magic in a bottle. Also, tasting the new 2018 Rosso di Montalcino Tenuta Greppo was an exciting addition to our lineup. Last year, I spoke of the estate's desire to improve on its quality, such as starting to use a sorting table and including fruit from their lower-elevation Brunello vineyards. While the official note will be released in the upcoming Rosso report, what I can say is that this is a slight departure from the austerity and oxidative style usually found in their Rosso, and a more ethereal effort focused on purity of fruit. When all is said and done, this team is very different from what you’d expect from the Biondi-Santi of old, yet what they’re doing with this historic estate has me very excited about the future.