2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Biondi Santi remains a beacon for all that is traditional in Montalcino, although in recent years, the family has allowed some of the wines to become more accessible at a younger age, most notably the Rosso, and also, in certain years, the Brunello Annata. Among other things, Jacopo Biondi Santi prefers a lighter pressing than his father, which results in wines with sweeter tannin and softer overall structure from the outset. It will be interesting to see how things develop. As revered as the Biondi Santi Brunellos are, the reality is that their showing with age has proven to be uneven, especially in a contemporary context in which wines are judged next to global, rather than local, peers. Tancredi Biondi Santi, Jacopo's son, is spending more time at the family estate and looks poised to carry on the legacy of Montalcino's first family. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the Brunellos (Annata and Riserva) in cask. Those wines suggest Biondi Santi fans can look forward to a number of striking wines in the near and medium term future.