2021 Grechetto

The Barberani estate is managed by Bernardo and Niccolò Barberani, who primarily focus on delivering a range of terroir-driven wines using traditional, local varieties that speak to the Orvieto Classico zone off the shores of Lake Corbara. The portfolio includes an inspiring mix of reds, whites and botrytis-inspired (Muffa Nobile) dessert wines. Their Muffa Nobile is among the top dessert wines in Italy, but this house also excels with Sangiovese. This variety is championed by many through the more northern reaches of Umbria, yet it is often blended with Montepulciano and Sagrantino. The Polvento hails from a 30-year-old vineyard planted in sedimentary soils rich in limestone, marine fossils and pebbles. It’s a serious Sangiovese that, in its youth, has a sheen of oak that integrates beautifully over time. Readers should also pay careful attention to the Orvieto Classico Superiore Luigi e Giovanna, the flagship wine here, that comes across as generous in its youth but has the potential to mature for up to a decade in bottle.